By Oliver Samson, RVA News
The bell tower of Cagsaua Church continues to be frequented by visitors—pilgrims and tourists alike— who come to whisper a prayer and marvel at the majestic Mayon Volcano looming in the distance, renowned worldwide for its perfect cone.
The church, located in Daraga, Albay, the Philippines, 400 kilometres southeast of Manila, was destroyed and buried by volcanic eruptions, but the tower still stands. According to one account, the Franciscan friars first constructed the first church in 1587.
Dutch raiders reduced it to rubble in 1636 by setting the structure on fire. The Dutch were revolting against Spanish rule at that time and launched attacks on Spanish possessions in the Philippines.
It was rebuilt as a baroque style structure in 1724 by Franciscan friars under Father Francisco Blanco.
Father Joseph Salando, rector and pastor of the Diocesan Shrine and Parish of Our Lady of Salvation in Tiwi, explained that an eruption on 1 February 1814, destroyed the church and since then, it has remained abandoned.
“Due to lahar and pyroclastic materials from that eruption and succeeding eruptions, the church was buried in ash,” he said, citing a local document as a source.
The 1814 eruption—the strongest of Mayon Volcano ever recorded—destroyed the church and Cagsawa town. Survivors evacuated to Daraga, a barrio at the time. Today, Daraga is a first-class municipality, covering the Cagsawa Ruins Park.
In the 1950s, the state acknowledged the significance of the ruins.
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“In 1954, a historical marker was placed on the bell tower,” Father Salando said. “Since then, it has become an important structure visited by people to appreciate the view of Mayon Volcano and the historical value Recent years, the park set up stores that selling pili nut delicacies, local cuisines, handicrafts, and other souvenir items.
Visitors come be photographed with the tower as the backdrop and the volcano in the background. The park is about 11 kilometres from the volcano.
In Philippine Information Agency news on 3 August 2023, state media reported an increase visitors to Cagsawa to 300–500 daily in June compared to 150–200 a day in previous months when the volcano was not flaring up with lava at its crater.
Lava outflows are spectacular at night, and people come to the Cagsawa ruins to view the volcanic activity even when the escalation alert is raised to level 3.
Albay’s tourism office regards the rise in the number of visitors as a boost to the province’s economy. It also observes the local tourism boom when Mayon is restive.
In 2014, local tourism officials reported the need for restoration work on the ruins due to its age, citing the possibility of collapse due to a strong earthquake.
Despite eruptions destroying and burying the main structure of the church under volcanic ash, the ruins, which include the tower and part of the convent, should still be considered a spiritual place.
“Let’s not forget that the ruins have not lost its state as a sacred place,” Father Salando said. “When there is an important occasion, a Mass is celebrated here. We still regard it as a church and a place of prayer. May we respect the religious value of the Cagsawa ruins.”
